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Guest Authors, Places, Writers on Location

Writers on Location – Naomi Wood on Hemingway’s Havana

Naomi Wood in CubaI’m very excited to be introducing a new regular slot on the Literary Sofa: WRITERS ON LOCATION, inspired by my own love of travel (and the way it, in turn, inspires me) and the many novels which have a particularly vivid, interesting or exotic sense of place. Naomi Wood’s novel Mrs Hemingway, one of my Fiction Hot Picks 2014, has no fewer than four beautifully drawn settings and I’m delighted that she has agreed to be my first Writer on Location, sharing her experience of Hemingway’s Havana in words and pictures. (My mini-review follows):

Researching Mrs. Hemingway has offered me an exotic travel itinerary. Each Hemingway couple (and there were four!) certainly knew how to choose the right place to live and write, drink and dance. Out of all the places I visited – from Paris to Antibes, Key West to Cuba – my favourite in the end has to be Havana, where Ernest spent so much of his time writing and partying in the 1940s and ’50s.

Havana_FacadeMy friend Eve and I visited Cuba at the end of March in 2013: still snowing in London, and 30 degrees in Havana. That’s part of why I fell in love, I suppose, but there’s also so much than just heat and peso pizzas: there’s the classic cars, the deco buildings, the Romeos at every corner (no, I won’t be your girlfriend), the gentle hustlers (no, I don’t want a taxi to Cienfuegos) and then the sound, of course, of yet another Buena Vista Social Club song.

We were still a little jet-lagged when our taxi pulled up to La Finca Vigia, Hemingway’s house in San Francisco de Paola, just on the outskirts of Havana. As someone who had spent years researching Hemingway’s life and his work, to be in the house where he composed his words (the right words in the best order, with just the right amount of fat boiled off) suddenly made me crash out of my jet-lag.

It was thrilling.

La_Finca_VigiaNow a museum, visitors can’t actually go inside La Finca but you can look in through the open windows. They say his things have been left relatively untouched here: Mary, his fourth wife, negotiated a deal with Castro after the revolution (indeed, Fidel came to the Finca and she very gently told him off for sitting in Ernest’s chair). After the Hemingways moved back to the US, Ernest’s manuscripts were shipped back in a shrimp boat. It was the last boat before the blockade.

And so there are still the kudu heads from their East African safaris, a pair of Ernest’s round spectacles still catching the light on his desk, his books on war, bullfighting, boxing, still shelved. There is still the pharmaceutical graffiti on the bathroom walls where, facing escalating health problems, Ernest marked his daily blood pressure.

Inside_La_FincaThe light in the house is lovely and yellow and the wind is warm and outside the house they serve sugar cane drinks with ice and – in homage to Papa – rum. And they give tours in English, which are actually in Spanish, where you can catch the words ‘Ava Gardner’ and ‘Gary Cooper’, who both came to stay at the house.

This is where Ernest lived with Martha Gellhorn and, in the hiatus of divorcing her and marrying his fourth wife, he renamed a maid ‘Martha’ rather dubiously in her honour. This is where his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer, came in 1948, where she became friends with Mary over creepers and cocktails; both graduates, they said, of the ‘Hemingway University’. This is where Ernest wrote letters to his first wife, Hadley, expressing his love for ‘early and best Gods’ that had never gone away. Here is where words were lovingly exchanged; where arguments were spat, where plates were thrown – and without always the intention to miss.

Havana_at_sunsetThis is where the carousel of wives and mistresses turned, and turned again. And I would go back in a heartbeat.

Thank you to Naomi for this piece which demonstrates her ability to transport the reader so well and for sharing her beautiful photos.

In Brief: My View of Mrs Hemingway

Mrs HemingwayMrs Hemingway was a rare book for me: I was able to completely unplug my critical antenna and read it with pure enjoyment. The results of Naomi’s subject knowledge and on-site research are apparent throughout – she vividly evokes the ambience of Antibes, Paris, Key West and Cuba on a physical and social level. But even more importantly she captures the unique voice and personality of each of Hemingway’s four wives, bringing their complex relationships with him and each other to life in a way that is fascinating and deeply engaging. The stylish and elegant writing conveys the glamour and romance to perfection but also does justice to the pain and emotional turbulence of Hemingway and the women who loved him. This novel is the literary equivalent of champagne and cocktails (of which there are many within its pages): classy and intoxicating. It has all the ingredients for huge success.

No post next week – I’m combining a half-term trip to Paris with my sons with research for my new novel. Whilst there I’m planning to hit the bookshops and indulge in some reading for a future post on new French language fiction that’s also available in English.

About Isabel Costello

Writer (novels: Paris Mon Amour 2017; Scent 2021).Host of the Literary Sofa blog. Co-founder of Resilience for Writers with Voula Tsoflias. Perfume lover and Francophile.


26 thoughts on “Writers on Location – Naomi Wood on Hemingway’s Havana

  1. Visited Hemingway’s old home in Key West a few years back and have vivid memories. So looking forward to this book, Who’d marry a writer, eh?

    Posted by mariamalone401888220 | February 12, 2014, 11:48
  2. I LOVE Hemingway and love the sound of this book. I wrote a short story about Hadley several years ago. I’d relish a copy of this!

    Posted by Nuala Ní Chonchúir | February 12, 2014, 11:58
  3. What a good idea for your new blog series and what a great start. Never been to Cuba but it’s always been a place that intrigued me. And didn’t know till this book that Hemingway had as many as four wives – tsk!!!

    Posted by Annecdotist | February 12, 2014, 13:35
  4. Hi There would love to win a copy sounds like a fascinating read

    Posted by Lisa Redmond | February 12, 2014, 13:38
  5. What a stunning first piece for the Literary Sofa’s new slot, featuring an exotic and fascinating location, and enthralling characters.

    Posted by Clare Brailsford | February 12, 2014, 15:44
  6. This is such a great sounding series – I look forward to other posts. I’m so pleased you’ve written about Mrs Hemingway today because, oddly, a colleague was telling me about it this morning (knowing I would like the sound of it) but she couldn’t remember the author. What a lovely coincidence to see your post pop in my inbox a few hours later!

    Posted by Ellie | February 12, 2014, 16:06
  7. Great idea for a series! I love getting a glimpse into writers’ processes and seeing a little of the things that inspired their work.

    Posted by Amy | February 12, 2014, 19:38
  8. I love the sound of this book and so very interesting to see photos and read about the background. Thank you.

    Posted by Karen | February 12, 2014, 21:39
  9. Location location location! Sounds like a fascinating read, with so much of Hemingway’s love life and women woven through his work. Would love to go to Cuba/Hemingway’s world through Naomi’s eyes!

    Posted by Catherine | February 13, 2014, 07:36
  10. A fascinating piece! The book sounds terrific and I’d love a chance to read it. Thanks for the opportunity to enter your giveaway.

    Posted by jacquiwine | February 13, 2014, 10:49
  11. I developed a bit of a fascination for this subject after reading Paula McLain’s book, ‘The Paris Wife, so I would love to read this..

    Posted by ummlilia (June Seghni) | February 15, 2014, 15:11
  12. Interesting piece…book sounds fascinating, would love to read…thank you for chance of opportunity.

    Posted by Ann | February 15, 2014, 16:38
  13. Just discovered your blog while googling Kate Atkinson AND literary allusions. Delighted to find a site with serious discussions of contemporary literature. Mrs. Hemingway sounds great . . . Hope I’m one of the winners!

    Posted by Janice Garcia | February 16, 2014, 12:36
  14. Love the sound of this book. Last March, I went to Madrid and ate at a restaurant where Hemingway was a regular and it was fascinating to view all the memorabilia which decorated the walls in celebration of his legacy.

    Posted by helenmackinven | February 16, 2014, 19:13
  15. This has been on my wish list for the last couple of months. Would love to win a copy and your review has made me want to read it even more!!

    Posted by Louise W | February 17, 2014, 18:47
  16. looks fascinating, would love to win a copy

    Posted by Thom | February 18, 2014, 09:23
  17. I love that the author visited the places she was writing about and that she is writing women into history when they are so often left out. I have heard many good things said about this book and I would relish the opportunity to own a copy!

    Posted by Laura Ashton | February 18, 2014, 09:29
  18. Such a fascinating topic. I’ve read a couple of books on the subject recently, mainly with a focus on Hadley though, so I’m very interested to read more about his other wives, and exploring the complexities of these relationships.

    Posted by Clare | February 18, 2014, 11:32
  19. I visited a couple of Hemingway’s haunts when I was in Cuba some years ago. Loved reading the post and the book sounds fascinating so I ‘d love to win a copy.

    Posted by Lindsay Bamfield | February 18, 2014, 12:34
  20. I’d love to win this book. It’s not clear, is it UK only? (I’m in USA) Years ago I read Travels With Myself and Another by Martha Gellhorn, one of the Mrs Hemmingways). Fascinating reading.

    Posted by Martha Gifford | February 18, 2014, 13:05
  21. I am so thrilled about all the wonderful books that are being published on great writers of the past. I look forward to reading this as well.

    Posted by Suzy | February 18, 2014, 16:55


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